Learning to surf at thirty-something requires a willingness to sputter like a toddler in swimmies and a healthy dose of humiliation. It also demands mental toughness to defeat the wave’s wallopings. Now doesn’t this sound vaguely like life? I thought I was reasonably ready for my first surf lesson. Yoga has improved my balance, and I did burpies to help prepare for changing stance from lying on the board to going vertical. Points for a good pupil, right? But like so much in life, preparation can’t top hands-on experience. With great anticipation, I plunged into St. Augustine’s waves. That’s when the words kill zone took on a whole new meaning.…